Milan designers pay tribute to David Bowie

A model wears a creation for Versace men’s Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection unveiled in Milan, Italy.

A model wears a creation for Versace men’s Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection unveiled in Milan, Italy.


Milan designers paid tribute to music and fashion icon David Bowie as Milan Fashion Week menswear previews for next fall and winter continued on Saturday.

Costume National designer Ennio Capasa and Roberto Cavalli’s Peter Dundas both said that the musician had often been a font of inspiration, apparent also in these collections previewing just a week after Bowie’s death. Donatella Versace saluted the singer with a single burst of Bowie’s hit “Ground Control to Major Tom” at the end of her futuristic, outer-space-inspired runway show.

Donatella Versace drew inspiration from the stars for her latest collection. The results are sleek and futuristic looks, appealing to the urban gentleman, international adventurer and even, should the occasion arise, interstellar traveler.

The Versace man starts his journey dramatically enough, running through the darkness in a lit-up track suits, as futuristic as ever a runway show opening. Pound, pound, pound.

Many of the looks had an active, if not athletic, silhouette, with snug-fitting knitwear trousers worn with bomber jackets or soft mohair sweaters. There were also sleek silvery day suits and bomber jackets with matching pants for an out-of-this-world impact.

Costume National creator Ennio Capasa titled his menswear preview for the next cold weather season “Under Pressure,” for the Bowie hymn, for the state of the world amid repeated violent attacks and for the condition of a fashion industry being consumed by fast-fashion.

The invitation to the Dolce&Gabbana show came with its own soundtrack, playing Ennio Morricone’s “A Fistful of Dollars” when opened, clearly foreshadowing that the designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana had applied their Sicilian lens to the Spaghetti Western.

The cinematically styled collection, titled “Sicilian Western” and inspired by Sergio Leone’s popular 1960s films, had flashes of both of whimsy and danger. Light-hearted repeating motifs of cacti, crossed revolvers, a mustachioed cowboy and a saloon dancer were embroidered or printed on sweaters and shirts, as well as tailored jackets and suits, three-piece and double-breasted.

A bit more backcountry, a big furry brown coat recalled Leonardo DiCaprio clad in the skin of the bear that mauled him in “The Revenant.” There were also bushy lambs-wool pants, worn with scoop-neck sweaters or thermal tops.


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